How To Germinate Your Marijuana Seeds?

How To Germinate Your Marijuana Seeds?

How many of you have ever tried to germinate your own marijuana seeds… with a miserable outcome?

When one starts the germination process of a specific strain of marijuana seeds, it is usually sparked by a deep rooted curiosity, and then matures into a serious marijuana growing hobby of genetic discoveries.

The following is a step-by-step process that has been very successful in the past, for many fruitful marijuana cultivators. In the process of germinating their seeds, regardless of budget these techniques will work for just about any homegrown gardener.

What’s the best way to germinate your marijuana seeds?

Alright boys and girls; sit up straight, light up that imagination and let’s get down to it. One of the first — and more important items that you will need to pay attention to, is the sanitation of your work environment. This includes your hands, your fingernails, your clothing and everything within the room that you were working. If you are a smoker of any type of nicotine product… it is critically important to wash your hands thoroughly before touching any of these seeds, or more important once they have sprouted their tender roots. Nicotine tends to be a poison for these very sensitive hairs on these new tender roots.

When preparing to germinate your seeds, it is also critically important that you have your needed supplies on hand, regardless of whether you are about to germinate one seed or 100 seeds. Making sure that you have all your necessary items clean and on hand will make things go much smoother.

The presoaking method that many like to deploy, utilizes one of my more favorite drinking glasses in anyone’s collection. Whether you are going to germinate one seed strain, or many, taking out your favorite shot glass… feeling it half-full with some room temperature mineral water, then dropping in whatever seeds that you have available for this germination process. Always making sure to take a piece of masking tape, fixing it to the shot glass… and marking down the date and strain that you started in that shot glass cup.

I know that the use of mineral water might sound “upper-crust” to sum. But it is done as a precautionary matter. In order to avoid any pollutants from the average city water system. If you have not tested your water’s Ph level, you may choose to do so, other than that, you can fill a pitcher of water and allow it to sit out for 24 hours. Leaving your tap water out and exposed to the air will help the chlorine and any other potentially unwanted chemicals to evaporate before being used on your delicate seeds.

So — Half fill your shot glasses with some “Perrier” mineral water. When you put your first seeds into the water you will notice that they will tend to float? This is not unusual, and don’t be alarmed. I generally like to stir my seeds up a little bit, just to help activate the process. After allowing them to sit overnight, the next day you will find that they have all (or most) settled to the bottom of the shot glass. At this current state the seeds do not like or require any light yet, but still requires more. Simply put; your marijuana seeds only require warm air, darkness and plenty of moisture to begin it’s a long journey of life.

After having chosen a warm spot that is consistent in its temperature someplace in a dark closet perhaps, near the top of a water heater, or on top of a refrigerator… making sure that it remains dark. The germinating marijuana seeds preferred temperature is between 75 to 85° and will thrive under these conditions as the roots begin to take life.

So you’ve got a “Floater”

When you return to your Germination laboratory the following day… and you peer into your shot glass of life. You will notice that most, if not all, of your pot seeds have sunk to the bottom of your shot glass. However… if they did, don’t despair, at least not just yet. As I mentioned earlier there’s something to be said about a little finger stirring of the seeds in the water, to help them sink and begin the process of absorbing the water that they need. If after some agitation your seeds are still floating, you can add some more mineral water and try back again and just another, 12 to 24 hours. If after that your seeds are still floating and they still lie dormant at the top of your shot glass, lifeless. The chances are slim – that if you were to put them in soil they would live.

Once I’m done playing with my seeds it’s time to turn my attention to the type of soil that I will use… When I say soil I actually mean Grow mix. The mix I start with, I plan on using throughout their entire lifecycle. For me this means that when I transplant, I will only have to do it once, and during that move it will be maintained in the same grow medium that it is been in its entire life. This simple step helps in preventing any unwanted stress or shock to the root system when they are transplanted to their final destination.

Kegger Cups Rock

Well there are many different vessels that one can use to start off their plants, as a means of being fiscally responsible… I preferred those cheap plastic kegger cups. I poke a few holes in the bottom in order to provide good water drainage. These containers provide plenty of root space for the young seedlings to spread out, while also allowing for a very easy transplantation.

Once the seeds are ready for the soil, poking my ‘pinky finger’ into the soil, up to the first knuckle or about 3/16 of an inch, I then place my seeds with the knot side up, gently covering the seed their new home tamping down lightly on the soil and then watering thoroughly. At this point it is important to note that I am still only using the bottled mineral water, as I do not want to damage is young tender roots.

Now that you have your future Hall of Fame ladies securely nestled in their new home, you need to decide the light cycles you want to use in order to set their growth and flower cycle. Your lights should remain on from somewhere between 16 to 20 hours for vegetation. During this cycle the plants shouldn’t be allowed to sleep (lights out) for more than approximately 4 to 8 hours. What you do right now is deciding what the light cycle will be for its vegetative and flowering times. As a means of reducing stress the optimum light is approximately 18 hours on and 6 hours off. Good Luck!