Starting Cannabis Seeds In Solo Cups

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1 weeks old tomorrow I’ve just been feeding ro water at pH 6.0. When should I do my first transplant? Any suggestions? I’m using a 600 king led grow light pretty cheap paid 80 bucks for it about 20 inches away. Gonna switch once I started feeding stronger ppm. Transform Ordinary Solo Cups Into a Hybrid Hydroponic/Soil Plant Booster: If you have ever attempted to start plants indoors before your last frost, you probably know what it is to get a root bound plant. No matter the size of your growing container, it does not take the roots too long to find its outer boundaries. This m… I have a couple of seeds that I have germinated already. I was wanting to know is it better to start them in a solo cup of soil to build up a root ball then…

Seedlings In solo cups

1 weeks old tomorrow I’ve just been feeding ro water at pH 6.0. When should I do my first transplant? Any suggestions? I’m using a 600 king led grow light pretty cheap paid 80 bucks for it about 20 inches away. Gonna switch once I started feeding stronger ppm.

19 Comments

Wait till the root stays together when u tap out of cup. If it falls apart… not ready Freddy.

Thanks for the feed back sunny

I wait till you get your first nodes and leaves span the diameter of cup!

Much appreciated feedback

I’ve never gone longer than 14 days in the cups. A nice vigorous plant and I’m getting that thing in a 1gl in 10 or 11 days. Then 2 more weeks in a 1 gl. I love transplanting.

I feed to water for the first 2 weeks after it sprouts then I’ll start low pppm like 275 right that’s what I did on my auto flower that are 2 weeks ahead of these seedlings but I just wanna make sure I don’t have to give nutes till a littler later stage I haven’t even been adding cal mag to the ro water wanna make sure I don’t burn them but they looking weak rn maybe I should start 275 now after the first week of just to water

Yeah 1st 2 weeks don’t need any additives. A sign they’re ready for nutes is when the cotyledon leaves fade to yellow and die.

There are variables that determine the amount you feed, but sounds like you have a good starting point to me.

This are the rounder leafs not the sedated ones right

Yes the rounder ones.

I wanna thank you for your feedback btw it’s been very helpful I’ve been studying this more and more everyday I got a whole shedule that I’ve put to get her from days of studying so atleast I know I’m not going in lost I just over think stuf a lot

I can tell by the pics you are watering too much.
Get a spray bottle and keep the soil moist. It should not compact, which is was pouring water will do.
That is probably why they look weak to you.
Environment and lighting should be suitable for a seedling as well. Low intense light at close distance is best. 75-85 degrees and 60-75% humidity is a good range. The ideal numbers are within that range.

I thought coco and perlite was no such thing as over watering cause the air to water ratio that it has idk maybe I read wrong I’ve been getting a lot of good info from cocoforcannabis.com great info for coco

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I’ve been watering it every day just very little to get a little run off I figure that also give the roots air like as it run off

The climate is deff dialed in

78 degrees at 65 humidity

No runoff needed. The seedling stage should be treated differently than the veg stage. You should be nursing the little girl to develop a root system first. Small amount of water…moisture, not wetness. If that makes sense.
Sounds like you’re doing a good job, just let it dry out a little then start misting the coco. About 15-20 sprays once a day, sometimes twice.

I just read that once the cleyotede have been open for 24 hours and in its first container I should start to fertigate with a ppm no higher than 400 I mean that’s what I’m feeding my other four bigger autos that’s Are one week ahead plus they grew faster these are feminizes so should I start to follow my low ppm of 275 for the next Tyne I spray the coco/per which I don’t need run of for or should I follow my shedule and just Waugh’s the 2 weeks cause it’s sounds to me with what your telling me that I shouldn’t water it a lot to no move the roots around to let them grow and fill in the cup so every how many days should I water or fertigate in this solo cups

You would be ok to feed up to 400ppm, that not bad advise, but the idea of that is to have available nutrition at a concentration that won’t burn the roots and keep that concentration at a low amount then increasing the amount as the plant gets bigger. This can prevent deficiencies later on. It’s not completely necessary, but I can see the benefits when growing in coco.

It’s tricky watering a young plant, so for a less complicated and more nurturing strategy, I suggest adding nothing for 10-14 days then transplant to 1 gallon pot and begin feeding at 400ppm.

one of them got a small hole on the serated leaf got me thinking maybe it needs calmag I mean I did buffer it with calmag at a pretty good strength mix maybe it’s nothing and rn I got the kingled 600w I don’t think it a strong like bought it for cheap i feel like it’s easier to use that then a bunch of bulbs do you think my light might be to strong for them I don’t have it that close

Transform Ordinary Solo Cups Into a Hybrid Hydroponic/Soil Plant Booster

Introduction: Transform Ordinary Solo Cups Into a Hybrid Hydroponic/Soil Plant Booster

If you have ever attempted to start plants indoors before your last frost, you probably know what it is to get a root bound plant. No matter the size of your growing container, it does not take the roots too long to find its outer boundaries. This method uses the benefits of hydroponic growing to keep those roots thriving, while preparing your plant to live in soil.

Step 1: Watch the Video

This Youtube video leads you through all of the steps of converting red solo cups into an outstanding hydroponic/soil planting solution.

Step 2: Keep a Couple of Your Old Solo Cups

You can use new ones of course, but why not get some use out of them first. We don’t judge you based on what was in the cup prior to starting the project.

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Step 3: Let’s Put Some Holes in the Bottom of One Cup

Or I have found you can easily do up to five of these at a time, but you will want one hole-free cup for every cup into which you put holes. You can use a nail, scissors, box knife, any number of things to cut your cups; however I find that for the smoothest process and the least chance of unintentionally cracking out your cup, warming a screwdriver over an open flame for about a minute and then pushing down with some force and melting through works best.

Step 4: Put Potting Soil Into the Cup That Has the Holes

I have used straight compost for this before as well. Whatever growing medium you would normally use for a potted plant should be used here.

Step 5: Place Inside the Solo Cup Without Holes

Step 6: Plant Your Seedling Into the Cup

It is time to put your seedling into the new creation. Plant it like you normally would when transplanting a seedling into a larger pot. Then give it a good initial watering. There are drainage holes in the inner cups, so your plant should not get water logged, and the outer cup will prevent water from spilling out.

Step 7: After a Good Initial Watering, Water Sparingly

You want those roots to seek out the holes in the bottom. If the soil goes completely dry and there are not yet roots in the bottom, make sure to water to keep your plant alive, but as soon as you see a root peeking out the bottom of the inner cup, quit watering from the top.

Step 8: Add Hydroponic Solution to the Outer Cup

Once you see that root peeking through, add hydroponic solution to the outer cup. The roots will thrive, and the plant will get tons of nutrients from the hydroponic solution. Your plant will grow as if it was in a much bigger pot, and be very health to transplant outside later.

should I plant my seeds in a solo cup or final pot from the start?

I have a couple of seeds that I have germinated already. I was wanting to know is it better to start them in a solo cup of soil to build up a root ball then transplant into final pot or just plant them in the final pot from start to finish? I will be using fox farm soil. I will be using 2 gallon smart pots. I will be growing auto flowers.

grorite
Well-Known Member
grorite
Well-Known Member
WattSaver
Well-Known Member

The only reasons to use a small pot to start is to save on nutes or its the conditions you have to grow in, like a small veg box. But with an auto, I’d put it straight into your 2gal and go.

jcdws602
Well-Known Member

Start in the solo cups. I recommend using fox farms light warrior mix to start seedlings and new cuttings. after 2-3 weeks you can transplant into fox farm ocean forest or whatever soil you want.

edit. just realized they are autos. you can still start in solo cups
. you just don’t want them to stress during transplant. so be careful that’s all

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texastiger707
Active Member

ok thank you. I was going to use fox farm ocean forest soil. My hydro shop was out of it. So I had to get fox farm happy frog. So is happy frog still good for autos?

grorite
Well-Known Member

i use happy frog had some pretty bad nute burn when i started seeds in it i suggest you get some cheap seed starting soil

Vindicated
Well-Known Member

You always want to have two inches of space between the root tips and the edge of your container. As long as you do that, you can pot up as often as you want. Larger containers means less watering and feedings, but it also means less room to grow plants. So you have to find a balance.

The first time you grow a new strain, your not going to know how fast those roots are developing, so if you can, error on the safe side and go with a larger container. However, with autos the limit seems to be around 7 to 10 gallons. The plants only get 1-2 feet, so anything beyond 10 gallons is over kill IMO. In fact, many do fine in 3 to 5 gallons containers. A lot also has to do with your particular setup (timers, feeding frequency, planting medium, etc).

What has always worked for me is starting in 1 gallon smart pots using a good potting mix formulated for seed germination (I use Miracle Gro Seed Starting Mix), then I make sure to transplant before the end of the third week. Any longer and the roots will start poking out the bottom and sides of the smart pots. It also helps to let the plants get a little dry but not wilting just before transplanting and water immediately afterwords.

texastiger707
Active Member

You always want to have two inches of space between the root tips and the edge of your container. As long as you do that, you can pot up as often as you want. Larger containers means less watering and feedings, but it also means less room to grow plants. So you have to find a balance.

The first time you grow a new strain, your not going to know how fast those roots are developing, so if you can, error on the safe side and go with a larger container. However, with autos the limit seems to be around 7 to 10 gallons. The plants only get 1-2 feet, so anything beyond 10 gallons is over kill IMO. In fact, many do fine in 3 to 5 gallons containers. A lot also has to do with your particular setup (timers, feeding frequency, planting medium, etc).

What has always worked for me is starting in 1 gallon smart pots using a good potting mix formulated for seed germination (I use Miracle Gro Seed Starting Mix), then I make sure to transplant before the end of the third week. Any longer and the roots will start poking out the bottom and sides of the smart pots. It also helps to let the plants get a little dry but not wilting just before transplanting and water immediately afterwords.

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